Keep in mind that bacterial infections do not show up on routine fecal tests, and parasitic infections only test positive if they are in their reproductive stage. Frankly, I've never seen a gecko go this long and have such a skinny tail from stress... there is definitely something else going on that only a vet can diagnose. The majority of these problems can be treated if caught early enough. In the meantime, I would like to suggest using my slurry for her. This will help keep her sustained and produce a stool for the vet to examine. You can find the recipe on the "INFO" page of my website.
Like I said in my previous post, bacterial infections do not show up on routine fecal tests, and parasitic infections only show positive if they are in their reproductive stage.Took her to the vet everything came out normal.
I don't recommend force-feeding at all. It gives the gecko undue stress, and in most cases they will refuse to even swallow and just spit it out. I think 'assist-feeding' is better... where you take a mealworm and tickle the side of the gecko's mouth until it opens it on it's own, then put the worm in.How do you feel about forcing their mouths open?
Like I said in my previous post, bacterial infections do not show up on routine fecal tests, and parasitic infections only show positive if they are in their reproductive stage.
I don't recommend force-feeding at all. It gives the gecko undue stress, and in most cases they will refuse to even swallow and just spit it out. I think 'assist-feeding' is better... where you take a mealworm and tickle the side of the gecko's mouth until it opens it on it's own, then put the worm in.
Like I said in my previous post, bacterial infections do not show up on routine fecal tests, and parasitic infections only show positive if they are in their reproductive stage.
I don't recommend force-feeding at all. It gives the gecko undue stress, and in most cases they will refuse to even swallow and just spit it out. I think 'assist-feeding' is better... where you take a mealworm and tickle the side of the gecko's mouth until it opens it on it's own, then put the worm in.
In most cases, leopard geckos can't help but lick things. Flagyl has a very bitter taste, so sometimes it works best to fill the syringe about 1/4 of the way full with slurry or baby food squash, wipe off the tip, then draw up the prescribed dose of medication in the tip. Stick the tip back in the baby food for flavor and put a dab on the end of the gecko's upper lip. When it starts licking, s-l-o-w-l-y squeeze out the medication and let the gecko lick it. By the time the medication has been dispensed, the baby food will start coming out again. Yum!
One of these days I really need to do a video on dispensing medication for YouTube.
yes, that happened to me as well which was very unfortunate because that meant I would lose that does of the medicine I had mixed in. So what I started doing with the ones that would eat is with a needle I would inject the medicine into a worm and then fed it. So much easier:main_yes:We did force feed her already and it went pretty smoothly. Once we got the syringe in her mouth she had no problem sucking it down. Tried the drop on the nose trick and she just wiped it off on the side of the bin.
I've had a few that were very slow about licking, and didn't like having anything on their nose. I hold my geckos when dropper/syringe feeding, and they usually wipe it on my shirt. Patience is the key. LOTS of patience!Did you ever have one that would not or could not lick?
That works well, but only assuming the gecko is eating. Most sick and convalescing geckos aren't eating.I would inject the medicine into a worm and then fed it
Just an update! For the first time in months we have weight gain! She's at 29 grams, so I'm stoked! Looks like she might pull through this after all!