Hello from Reno!

[Nikki_Shark]

Hello, In the last 3 weeks I've been contemplating getting my first reptile in over 5 years (used to have a cornsnake and Pueblen Milk Snake). And today I pulled the trigger and got me a little leopard gecko, I have so many questions and am a little worried, I want his life to be the best I can give, and I hope that by coming here I can get the answers I need and even make some friends along the way!

 

[acpart]

Welcome! Feel free to ask your questions here. They are pretty hardy creatures.

Aliza

 

[Nikki_Shark]

Welcome! Feel free to ask your questions here. They are pretty hardy creatures.

Aliza

Thank you! Im not even sure what kind of Leo he is, I was told he is an albino and needs a bit more specialty care, and I would love if someone might be able to identify him, and if so list what those are so I can keep them in mind.

I was told Albino's (or leo's in general) dont really require UVB if they get the D3 calcium, but it is a negative for these guys specifically, is this the case or was I told wrong?

I was never told how many insects to feed him, but I was told every day, is that true? (hes about 3 inches long if that helps)

 

[BLUSH50]

Thank you! Im not even sure what kind of Leo he is, I was told he is an albino and needs a bit more specialty care, and I would love if someone might be able to identify him, and if so list what those are so I can keep them in mind.

I was told Albino's (or leo's in general) dont really require UVB if they get the D3 calcium, but it is a negative for these guys specifically, is this the case or was I told wrong?

I wouldn’t deprive him from “sun” but I would make sure the enclosure is long enough(minimum 36in long, 18in wide, 12in high) for a young (small) gecko. My true recommendation is 5x2x2f long enclosure for an adult due to safety, space and exploring. However, I had to make it work temporarily until their real enclosures were built and had to use Exo terra 36x18x12 for for quarantine.

This deserted tank in the basement is all I have left and so I had to use paper towel to show you placement of small dome(I would try Deep heat projector) and 12in UVB with slate for basking under this area. The paper towel along the front would be for a UTH(dry hide and humidity hide in this area). Both need to be on a thermostat.
This will allow him to have access to UVB if desired without being forced for heat.

Hope this helps

 

[Nikki_Shark]

I wouldn’t deprive him from “sun” but I would make sure the enclosure is long enough(minimum 36in long, 18in wide, 12in high). My true recommendation would be a 5x2x2f long enclosure due to safety and space for exploring. However, I had to make it work before the real enclosures were built and had to use Exo terra 36x18x12 for for quarantine.

This deserted tank in the basement is all I have left and so I had to use paper towel to show you placement of small dome(I would try Deep heat projector) and 12in UVB with slate for basking under this area. The paper towel along the front would be for a UTH(dry hide and humidity hide in this area). Both need to be on a thermostat.
This will allow him to have access to UVB if desired without being forced for heat.

Hope this helps

I live in an apartment with a large rat cage, so space is at a bit of a premium but I will keep the size recommendations in mind and try to accommodate, I'm not sure id be able to fit a 5x2x2, but the 36x18x12 I think I might.
I have him in a 20 gallon Temporarily but do plan on getting him a 40 or 50 gallon in the near future (I love the swing open door types so, it will most likely be one of the bigger exo terra's. I have a small heat lamp and UTH for him, but again, I plan on upgrading so, if he needs UVB, then UVB I will give him along with all the upgraded fixens over the next couple of weeks~!

Would anyone be able to help me identify this beautiful creature?

 

[acpart]

Enclosure size: to some extent this is a matter of opinion. While it's nice to have a 36" or 60" long enclosure, in my experience of 20 years, most leos are fine in a 20 gallon long (30"). I keep 1 or 2 in an enclosure this size and provide an additional 12"x12" second level. I guess there's a possibility that my leos are all hating this but they all seem to be active and healthy and my oldest one is now past 18.

UVB: It certainly doesn't hurt to provide this, but leos can also be maintained with use of calcium and vitamin D3 supplements.

Identification: I'm not sure what more you want to know. As you know, it's a leopard gecko. It's an albino, meaning that there's no black coloring. Although albinos may have more sensitive eyes, I don't treat my albinos any differently than my non-albinos (my 18 year old leo is an albino). What else are you wondering about its morph?

Feeding: I always recommend putting some feeders in the cage (pick a number, maybe around 4 to start). See what happens. If it eats them all and wants more, especially if it's a juvenile, put a few more in. If it never eats that many, put fewer in. Obviously, like many creatures, it may not eat the same amount every night, but eventually you'll get a feel for how many it needs.

I hope this was helpful.

Aliza

 

[Nikki_Shark]

Enclosure size: to some extent this is a matter of opinion. While it's nice to have a 36" or 60" long enclosure, in my experience of 20 years, most leos are fine in a 20 gallon long (30"). I keep 1 or 2 in an enclosure this size and provide an additional 12"x12" second level. I guess there's a possibility that my leos are all hating this but they all seem to be active and healthy and my oldest one is now past 18.

UVB: It certainly doesn't hurt to provide this, but leos can also be maintained with use of calcium and vitamin D3 supplements.

Identification: I'm not sure what more you want to know. As you know, it's a leopard gecko. It's an albino, meaning that there's no black coloring. Although albinos may have more sensitive eyes, I don't treat my albinos any differently than my non-albinos (my 18 year old leo is an albino). What else are you wondering about its morph?

Feeding: I always recommend putting some feeders in the cage (pick a number, maybe around 4 to start). See what happens. If it eats them all and wants more, especially if it's a juvenile, put a few more in. If it never eats that many, put fewer in. Obviously, like many creatures, it may not eat the same amount every night, but eventually you'll get a feel for how many it needs.

I hope this was helpful.

Aliza

Thanks for the Info!
Identification: I'm just super curious about the morph, because it doesn't look like a typical leopard Gecko, and, me being a newbie, I know next to nothing about morphs and want to learn all I can.

Everything else was spot on and the info I was looking for, thank you so much! Like I said, I do want to give him a bit of an upgrade,

 

[acpart]

The typical leopard gecko has a bright yellow to mustard yellow background and black spots and blotches. Sometimes it can be highly spotted and sometimes it can have fewer spots so the yellow shows through. The albino leopard gecko has a yellow background, sometimes with some white, and beige spots and blotches. I have found that many albinos have more of a blotchy look than a spotty look. Yours has less beige spotting so you can see the yellow/orange coloring clearly. Some people would call that a "high yellow" meaning that a lot of yellow shows through.

Aliza

 

[Yvonne G]

Welcome!

 

[Bilbo's Slave]

You shouldn't put insects right in the enclosure. If the leopard gecko doesn't eat them they might nibble on him. When it's feeding time, it would be best to watch to make sure he eats all of them

 

[acpart]

Different people do things different ways. With a healthy gecko, I've had no problems putting insects right into the enclosure. Of course, I'm checking the gecko carefully to make sure there isn't a problem. In very rare cases there was a problem and I changed my method.

Aliza