justindh1
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Heres a care sheet that I made up to give to anyone who buys one of my geckos. I just want to see what people think about it and if they think that there needs to be any changes. I think its overall informative and contains all the info needed but it might need some changes. Thanks for looking and giving me any advice. :main_thumbsup:
Leopard Gecko Care Sheet
By: Justin Hilton – [email protected]
Overview - Leopard geckos are one of the most common reptiles kept as pets with beginners and also expert reptile keepers. They are a very gentile, calm, and nice natured reptile. They are nocturnal ground dwelling insectivores that are found in the dry-desert of Pakistan, Northern India, Afghanistan, and parts of Iran. Unlike most geckos, these have moveable eyelids and no sticky pads on their toes. Leopard geckos can live as long as 20 years and some have been reported to live longer in some instances.
Size - Hatchling leopard geckos are typically 2-4 inches long and weight from 2-4 grams. Adult leopard gecko can obtain lengths from 7-10 inches and can weight from 60-100 grams. Some genetic lines such as the Giants and Super Giants can obtain lengths of up to a foot long and can top 100+ grams.
Housing - The first rule when housing leopard geckos is that there is a minimum of 10gals. for each adult leopard gecko, of course the bigger the space the better. When housing multiple animals you need to consider the sex of the geckos that will be housed together. No more then 1 male can be kept in a tank. Males will get territorial and will fight. If keep together, one will either be killed or will starve so just don’t do it! If females and males are kept together then the female will ovulate and lay eggs. So make sure that you want this to happen before you put males and females together.
Tank Temps - All reptiles regulate their own body temperatures so it is necessary to provide temperature gradients in the tank. The tank needs to consist of a warm side that reaches 90-95 degrees and a cold side that is around 80 degrees. The best way to achieve a hot side is with a UTH or better known as a “Under Tank Heater”. Heat lamps and heat rocks are inconsistent and don’t allow the right temperature gradients. The ambient temperatures, air temps, in the tank need to be around 85 degrees. If you need to raise the ambient temps in the tank then a lamp can be used to achieve this.
Tank Set-ups - There needs to be one hide on each the cold and warm sides of the tank. In addition to the hot and cold hides, there needs to be a moist hide which helps in the shedding process. Shed skin left on the toes can constrict the blood flow and cause the toes to fall off. You want the moist hide either in the middle or on the cool side of the tank. The tank also needs to have a bowl for water and one for calcium with-out D3! There ALWAYS needs to be clean water and calcium w/o D3 in the tank. Leopard geckos can suffer from MBD “Metabolic Bone Disease” if they don’t receive enough calcium. The water bowl needs to be checked every day and changed when dirty. As a substrate I use paper towels instead of sand. Sand can cause impaction and can put the health of your gecko on the line. I have dealt with it and it’s not fun. It’s best just to keep from using sand and keep that part out of the equation. Paper towels are easy to take out and replace. I also use thick cloth for some of my tanks that I bought and cut to size. Lighting can be used even though they are a nocturnal reptile. I use red party bulbs on my tanks which allows me to see the tank better but isn’t too bright that it bothers the geckos eyes, especially albinos.
Feeding - Being that leopard geckos are insectivores the most common food item that is given are crickets, mealworms, superworms, and/or roaches. Wax worms can also be used as a feeder but only as a treat because they have a high fat content. The prey shouldn’t be longer then the reptiles head and half the width too. All feeders need to be “Shakin” with a vitamin/calcium supplement to make the feeders the perfect nutritional value. Adult’s geckos should be feed 3-4 times a week and hatchlings should be feed everyday. Most will eat between 4-6 crickets at every feeding. Don’t leave any uneaten crickets in the tank. Check after 30 minutes and take any remaining crickets out. They can cause stress on the gecko by crawling on them and nibbling on their toes. Mealworms can be left in a bowl with some calcium with them. Feeders should be “gut loaded” which is feeding them a high nutritional meal at least 24 hours prior to feeding. Feeders possess most of their nutrition from what they have in the stomach so if you don’t “gut load” your feeders then they will have little nutritional value to them. Don’t use any “wild” caught feeders as they could contain parasites, diseases, or pesticides.
Handling - The enjoyment of a pet comes from watching and handling them. Hatchling leopard geckos should be left alone and handled minimally until they get 5-6 inches and are accustom to their new environment. Too much handling with a hatchling can cause stress on the gecko. Once they are old enough then you can take your gecko out for couple minutes a day. Sit down when you first start holding them and let them crawl through your fingers and get use to you. Soon enough they will get use to your hand and will look forward to seeing you. I have several that will come to the glass of the tank and greet me. Don’t ever grab the gecko by the tail or it could fall off. The tail will grow back but it will take several months and will never look as good as the original.
Maintenance - The tank should be cleaned up and disinfected at least once a week as well as the hides and bowls that are used. Take all soiled substrate out and replace. There are many disinfectants that can be used but just make sure that it is air out good and wiped down. Some examples are diluted bleach, Windex, vinegar, and etc.
Quarantine - All newly acquired reptiles need to be separated and housed in a different tank and better in a separate room then any previously owned reptiles for at least 30-90 days. This is just a precautionary measure to insure that they don’t have any disease and that the health of the gecko isn’t going to affect any that you have. You need to do this with all newly acquired reptiles no matter how well you trust the individual that you got them from.
Sexing – Telling whether you gecko is a male or female is easy on older geckos and pretty much impossible on hatchlings. Leopard geckos reach maturity around 10-14 months old. Mature males and females have a “V” shaped pre-anal pores but the males have larger, darker, and more pronounced pores. The males secrete a waxy substance that from the pores which they use to mark their territory. The males also have hemi penal glands that bulge at the base of the tail behind the hind legs. If your gecko has this bulge then it is a male. Males are also typically larger and have a broader head and neck.
Health – Keeping an eye on your gecko or geckos is important. Notice any changes in their habits is vital to catching problems early. They can suffer from anything from parasites, impaction, shedding problems to egg binding and others too. If you notice any problems then take it to a vet immediately. Any vet will work but one that specializes in reptiles is best. Its always good to find one in your area just incase you need one.
Leopard Gecko Care Sheet
By: Justin Hilton – [email protected]
Overview - Leopard geckos are one of the most common reptiles kept as pets with beginners and also expert reptile keepers. They are a very gentile, calm, and nice natured reptile. They are nocturnal ground dwelling insectivores that are found in the dry-desert of Pakistan, Northern India, Afghanistan, and parts of Iran. Unlike most geckos, these have moveable eyelids and no sticky pads on their toes. Leopard geckos can live as long as 20 years and some have been reported to live longer in some instances.
Size - Hatchling leopard geckos are typically 2-4 inches long and weight from 2-4 grams. Adult leopard gecko can obtain lengths from 7-10 inches and can weight from 60-100 grams. Some genetic lines such as the Giants and Super Giants can obtain lengths of up to a foot long and can top 100+ grams.
Housing - The first rule when housing leopard geckos is that there is a minimum of 10gals. for each adult leopard gecko, of course the bigger the space the better. When housing multiple animals you need to consider the sex of the geckos that will be housed together. No more then 1 male can be kept in a tank. Males will get territorial and will fight. If keep together, one will either be killed or will starve so just don’t do it! If females and males are kept together then the female will ovulate and lay eggs. So make sure that you want this to happen before you put males and females together.
Tank Temps - All reptiles regulate their own body temperatures so it is necessary to provide temperature gradients in the tank. The tank needs to consist of a warm side that reaches 90-95 degrees and a cold side that is around 80 degrees. The best way to achieve a hot side is with a UTH or better known as a “Under Tank Heater”. Heat lamps and heat rocks are inconsistent and don’t allow the right temperature gradients. The ambient temperatures, air temps, in the tank need to be around 85 degrees. If you need to raise the ambient temps in the tank then a lamp can be used to achieve this.
Tank Set-ups - There needs to be one hide on each the cold and warm sides of the tank. In addition to the hot and cold hides, there needs to be a moist hide which helps in the shedding process. Shed skin left on the toes can constrict the blood flow and cause the toes to fall off. You want the moist hide either in the middle or on the cool side of the tank. The tank also needs to have a bowl for water and one for calcium with-out D3! There ALWAYS needs to be clean water and calcium w/o D3 in the tank. Leopard geckos can suffer from MBD “Metabolic Bone Disease” if they don’t receive enough calcium. The water bowl needs to be checked every day and changed when dirty. As a substrate I use paper towels instead of sand. Sand can cause impaction and can put the health of your gecko on the line. I have dealt with it and it’s not fun. It’s best just to keep from using sand and keep that part out of the equation. Paper towels are easy to take out and replace. I also use thick cloth for some of my tanks that I bought and cut to size. Lighting can be used even though they are a nocturnal reptile. I use red party bulbs on my tanks which allows me to see the tank better but isn’t too bright that it bothers the geckos eyes, especially albinos.
Feeding - Being that leopard geckos are insectivores the most common food item that is given are crickets, mealworms, superworms, and/or roaches. Wax worms can also be used as a feeder but only as a treat because they have a high fat content. The prey shouldn’t be longer then the reptiles head and half the width too. All feeders need to be “Shakin” with a vitamin/calcium supplement to make the feeders the perfect nutritional value. Adult’s geckos should be feed 3-4 times a week and hatchlings should be feed everyday. Most will eat between 4-6 crickets at every feeding. Don’t leave any uneaten crickets in the tank. Check after 30 minutes and take any remaining crickets out. They can cause stress on the gecko by crawling on them and nibbling on their toes. Mealworms can be left in a bowl with some calcium with them. Feeders should be “gut loaded” which is feeding them a high nutritional meal at least 24 hours prior to feeding. Feeders possess most of their nutrition from what they have in the stomach so if you don’t “gut load” your feeders then they will have little nutritional value to them. Don’t use any “wild” caught feeders as they could contain parasites, diseases, or pesticides.
Handling - The enjoyment of a pet comes from watching and handling them. Hatchling leopard geckos should be left alone and handled minimally until they get 5-6 inches and are accustom to their new environment. Too much handling with a hatchling can cause stress on the gecko. Once they are old enough then you can take your gecko out for couple minutes a day. Sit down when you first start holding them and let them crawl through your fingers and get use to you. Soon enough they will get use to your hand and will look forward to seeing you. I have several that will come to the glass of the tank and greet me. Don’t ever grab the gecko by the tail or it could fall off. The tail will grow back but it will take several months and will never look as good as the original.
Maintenance - The tank should be cleaned up and disinfected at least once a week as well as the hides and bowls that are used. Take all soiled substrate out and replace. There are many disinfectants that can be used but just make sure that it is air out good and wiped down. Some examples are diluted bleach, Windex, vinegar, and etc.
Quarantine - All newly acquired reptiles need to be separated and housed in a different tank and better in a separate room then any previously owned reptiles for at least 30-90 days. This is just a precautionary measure to insure that they don’t have any disease and that the health of the gecko isn’t going to affect any that you have. You need to do this with all newly acquired reptiles no matter how well you trust the individual that you got them from.
Sexing – Telling whether you gecko is a male or female is easy on older geckos and pretty much impossible on hatchlings. Leopard geckos reach maturity around 10-14 months old. Mature males and females have a “V” shaped pre-anal pores but the males have larger, darker, and more pronounced pores. The males secrete a waxy substance that from the pores which they use to mark their territory. The males also have hemi penal glands that bulge at the base of the tail behind the hind legs. If your gecko has this bulge then it is a male. Males are also typically larger and have a broader head and neck.
Health – Keeping an eye on your gecko or geckos is important. Notice any changes in their habits is vital to catching problems early. They can suffer from anything from parasites, impaction, shedding problems to egg binding and others too. If you notice any problems then take it to a vet immediately. Any vet will work but one that specializes in reptiles is best. Its always good to find one in your area just incase you need one.
!!
