Hey folks, I attached a picture of the tank that my wife and I currently have our juvenile leopard set up in. The hide is filled with a bit of moss for comfort/humidity purposes. One thing I'm slightly concerned about is the temp of the tank, which generally remains around 80 degrees with both lights turned on, with a 30% humidity level. I've read all different kinds of ranges from numerous websites, but I'm looking for some insight.
Tank/temp questions
- Thread starter Bbravo
- Start date
I keep my leos temps between the upper 80s and lower 90s on the heated side and between upper 70s and lower 80s on the cool side. I try to keep their humidity at 35% and raise it to 40% when they shed. Your temp seems a little on the low side and it seems you only have an overall temp instead of a gradient. I'd recommend switching to an under tank heater for belly heat and either a heat emitter or a higher watt heat source you can easily find on Amazon and use a temp contoller for both so that the tank can safely reach the correct temps and shut off before the temps get too hot. That might be a little too much light for it. You can use a uvb along with the heat emitter but you don't have to as long as you are supplementing its food using calcium with D3. But whether you want to use a uvb source or not is up to you. Regardless you will have to supplement with the D3 because they don't usually bask. I hope this helped. Here's a good how to guide that I used for my leopard geckos just in case.
www.lizards101.com
Leopard Gecko Tank Is Too Cold? - Care Guides For Pet Lizards
How to raise the temperature in a leopard gecko tank, optimal temperatures in the tank, leopard gecko cold tolerance and insulating the UTH under the tank.
www.lizards101.com
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- Somerville, MA
Remember that those high temperatures are for the floor of the enclosure, not the air. Constant air temps in the 90's are way too hot for a leopard gecko.
Aliza
Aliza
Thanks for that info acpart, the inside air temp has been around 90 for a day or so without us knowing that it shouldn't be. I took the bigger bulb out and switched to a smaller one. What would you recommend keeping the air temp at? We also have the tank placed on a wooden end table at the moment, should we buy a tank stand before placing an under tank heater or would it be fine? I know the heater I plan on buying comes with feet to raise the tank off of surfaces.
- Messages
- 15,156
- Location
- Somerville, MA
I find that with the under tank heater at one end, as long as the ambient temperature is habitable for humans it will be fine for geckos. If the ambient temp is too cool for them, they'll go in their warm hide where the hide will trap the floor heat and make it warm. If the ambient temp is warm, they'll go over to the cool side. I don't use lights for my leopard gecko cages (I have too many cages for that!). I live in New England with no AC, so in the winter, during the day, the air temps may be in the mid to upper 60's. In the summer, my living room can get into the 90's, though not for too many days at a time. Everyone does fine with that. Even me.
Aliza
Aliza
Well what i meant by "low" 90s is If your ambient temps get to 90-92 degrees on the hot side, it is okay. This species originates from areas that reach over 100°F during the summer months. Of course, most of our pet geckos are captive bred so they have never come in contact with their natural environment, but generally what I'm saying is they are built for higher temps and are in no way harmed by temps only reaching 90-92°. Over the years during the summer months where I live, the warm side of my enclosures usually reached around 88-92° and the geckos are perfectly healthy and show no signs of being too hot. I too was once worried about this when i first started keeping geckos but over the years I've spent with them, with close monitoring, I have learned that they can withstand temps that are a little on the warm side no problem and still be perfectly okay. My apologies for not being specific on that.
I appreciate your insight 
I'm going to up the tank size to a 20 gallon, I'd be much happier knowing that my gradient is nice and steady with a larger tank space. Now I just need to build the stand . I do have another question for you, our gecko is very young. He/she fits head to tail in the palm of my hand right now. My wife and I have been handling him for about 15 minutes every night in hopes that he will become more comfortable with being handled. It's been a week now, and it seems that he is actually becoming less social. Last night he actually bit me twice while trying to get him out of the tank. Is this normal?
I'm going to up the tank size to a 20 gallon, I'd be much happier knowing that my gradient is nice and steady with a larger tank space. Now I just need to build the stand . I do have another question for you, our gecko is very young. He/she fits head to tail in the palm of my hand right now. My wife and I have been handling him for about 15 minutes every night in hopes that he will become more comfortable with being handled. It's been a week now, and it seems that he is actually becoming less social. Last night he actually bit me twice while trying to get him out of the tank. Is this normal?I should add that once he is out of the tank and settled in our hands he is generally fairly calm and will just sit in place and look around.I appreciate your insight
Usually when geckos are introduced to new surroundings they can be stressed out for a couple weeks. I would refrain from holding the gecko until he/she is settled in. I know it can be irresistible to handle a new gecko but it is for the best. Another thing to think about is temperment. All geckos have different personalities, some can tolerate with being held alot more than others!
Hello!
I bought Leopard (names by my six-year-old) on Sunday and it he hasn’t eaten yet. I’be tried live crickets (Sunday) and meal worms every day since, but nothing. I’m also worried my tank is too cold. I have a heat pad, which I set to 32oC, but my air temperature thermometer only reads 69oF (not sure what that is in Celsius). I have a 60w ceramic bulb on top, both on the hot side. I don’t change the temperature at night. I’m beginning to worry now though as I feel like he’s too cold, and therefore not eating. Sorry to high-jack the post, I’m just having a similar problem. Any help would be appreciated. TIA.
I bought Leopard (names by my six-year-old) on Sunday and it he hasn’t eaten yet. I’be tried live crickets (Sunday) and meal worms every day since, but nothing. I’m also worried my tank is too cold. I have a heat pad, which I set to 32oC, but my air temperature thermometer only reads 69oF (not sure what that is in Celsius). I have a 60w ceramic bulb on top, both on the hot side. I don’t change the temperature at night. I’m beginning to worry now though as I feel like he’s too cold, and therefore not eating. Sorry to high-jack the post, I’m just having a similar problem. Any help would be appreciated. TIA.
It's totally fine. Your gecko might be refusing to eat because it is too cold but another good reason the gecko isnt eating is because it's a new gecko. Like i said before it's common for geckos to refuse food when introduced to new surroundings. Give him a couple weeks to settle. As for your temps, 69°F (20°c) is quite low for a gecko. What size tank do you have? You should consider getting a higher watt bulb as 60w seems a little low. I would consider getting a heat emitter. You can find these at any pet store or online. They will usually tell you which size is appropriate for whatever tank size tank you have.
Thank you! That was my next thought. I have a tank which is about 2.5 foot. I will look at getting another bulb.
Attachments
You're welcome. That is a bit tall for a gecko enclosure and thats another reason your 60w is having trouble heating the whole area. That's okay though, you just need a higher watt bulb and you should be able to bring up the temps. The under tank heater seems to be at a good temp.
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