I just started getting into geckos in march and been having a hard time with some things. I read a book about leopard geckos to understand more about them. A few kids on campus and my ex got me into them. I have read its ok use cal sad and then I heard its bad. I want to Know what you guys think I should all have in my cages for my leos because I seriously dont want lose these guys because I listen to the wrong person. I also want know what I should feed them today at this pet store this lady said she works at a vet and all. She was telling me that meal worms are a treat not a everyday thing. She was telling me how if they are not chewed up all the way that the mealies will eat a hole through their digestive system. I hope you guys can help me out. please and thank you!
What should I have in my leos cage
- Thread starter mouso1415
- Start date
Calc sand may cause leo's to digest it when they are hunting for food and they may get an impaction witch could lead to death. the easyest thing too feed them is mealworm's when the leo's are little then move up to superworm's. for the minimum setup id go with, uth(under tank heater)
Papertowl's
Two warm hide's.
A cool hide
a moist hide(tuperwear container with a hole in the side works.)
Water dish's for water and mealworms.
and calcium with d3 and without d3.
Papertowl's
Two warm hide's.
A cool hide
a moist hide(tuperwear container with a hole in the side works.)
Water dish's for water and mealworms.
and calcium with d3 and without d3.
Khrysty
New Member
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- Oregon, IL
Okay. Well first of all, it's not possible for mealies to chew a hole in a gecko. It's a myth.
Sand = bad. Here's why: There's a RISK of impaction (a potentially fatal blockage of the digestive system) with any loose substrate. I, and most others, would not be willing to take that risk. Even calcium sand is bad. As is vita-sand, ground walnuts, etc.
The tank should have a solid substrate, like papertowels, shelf liner, newspaper, tile, slate, etc.
Leo needs 3 hides at least: one on the cold side, one on the hot side, and one that's kept moist at all times. The moist hide can be made out of a tupperware container that is halfway filled with moist vermiculite, coco fiber, or even damp paper towels. I keep the moist hide on the warm side for a "sauna" effect but a lot of people keep it in the middle or on the cool side because it doesn't dry out nearly as often.
You need a heat source. The best heat source is an UTH or "Under Tank Heater." You will need to monitor the temperature with a digital thermometer that has a probe. Set the probe directly on top of the UTH and read temps. They should be between 90 and 95 on the hot side and about 10 degrees cooler on the cool side.
You need supplements. Calcium is ESSENTIAL to the growth and development of happy geckos. Most of us keep a small cap of calcium w/o D3 in the cage at all times and dust with a calcium w/D3 supplement every few feedings. Some of us, myself included, will also dust the feeder insects with a vitamin supplement every few feedings as well
Dust = coat the insect with supplement
Also, they don't need any special UV lighting. They're nocturnal and, as such, haven't developed to use the lighting the way other reptiles have. It's pretty much useless.
Feeders you can use other than mealworms: crickets, roaches, superworms, waxworms (these are like gecko-crack...crazy addicting and not good for them..but a really good treat), hornworms, phoenix worms, silkworms, butterworms...and probably more that I'm forgetting
Feeding schedules are different depending on the age of the gecko. The young ones eat a LOT every single day. As they get older they eat less, and less often. Your leo will just not eat when it's not hungry, so it's not really something to stress over.
Umm...if I've missed anything I'm sure someone else will cover it.
Welcome to the wonderful world of leopard geckos!
Sand = bad. Here's why: There's a RISK of impaction (a potentially fatal blockage of the digestive system) with any loose substrate. I, and most others, would not be willing to take that risk. Even calcium sand is bad. As is vita-sand, ground walnuts, etc.
The tank should have a solid substrate, like papertowels, shelf liner, newspaper, tile, slate, etc.
Leo needs 3 hides at least: one on the cold side, one on the hot side, and one that's kept moist at all times. The moist hide can be made out of a tupperware container that is halfway filled with moist vermiculite, coco fiber, or even damp paper towels. I keep the moist hide on the warm side for a "sauna" effect but a lot of people keep it in the middle or on the cool side because it doesn't dry out nearly as often.
You need a heat source. The best heat source is an UTH or "Under Tank Heater." You will need to monitor the temperature with a digital thermometer that has a probe. Set the probe directly on top of the UTH and read temps. They should be between 90 and 95 on the hot side and about 10 degrees cooler on the cool side.
You need supplements. Calcium is ESSENTIAL to the growth and development of happy geckos. Most of us keep a small cap of calcium w/o D3 in the cage at all times and dust with a calcium w/D3 supplement every few feedings. Some of us, myself included, will also dust the feeder insects with a vitamin supplement every few feedings as well
Dust = coat the insect with supplement
Also, they don't need any special UV lighting. They're nocturnal and, as such, haven't developed to use the lighting the way other reptiles have. It's pretty much useless.
Feeders you can use other than mealworms: crickets, roaches, superworms, waxworms (these are like gecko-crack...crazy addicting and not good for them..but a really good treat), hornworms, phoenix worms, silkworms, butterworms...and probably more that I'm forgetting
Feeding schedules are different depending on the age of the gecko. The young ones eat a LOT every single day. As they get older they eat less, and less often. Your leo will just not eat when it's not hungry, so it's not really something to stress over.
Umm...if I've missed anything I'm sure someone else will cover it.
Welcome to the wonderful world of leopard geckos!
little98dime
Member
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- 318
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- St. Augustine, Florida
Holy informative post khrysty. Very nice.
I think she missed that. Have a water bowl at all times and change it daily. It's always nice to have fresh water with them. Different people have their different opinions about what kind of water (tap, filtered, bottle, etc). But I think it's up to you. I have this stuff from the petstore that "cleans" the water for repitles...but I think it was a gimmick and a waste of money. Put it on the warm side or the cool side because if it's on the hot side, it dries up extremely quickly.
Good luck
Good luck
EchoPet
Gecko Obsessed
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Shame on the lady for giving you bad info and claiming to be knowledgeable because she works for a vet!
I think Khrysty covered pretty much everything. :main_thumbsup:
And Spots, it was probably something to remove chlorine from tap water. Another option is to just let the water sit out overnight - chlorine will naturally evaporate.
I think Khrysty covered pretty much everything. :main_thumbsup:
And Spots, it was probably something to remove chlorine from tap water. Another option is to just let the water sit out overnight - chlorine will naturally evaporate.
little98dime
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- St. Augustine, Florida
Yes, they need a water bowl. Nothing really big, but enough to last them all day. Make sure to rinse it out and refill it every day.
little98dime
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- St. Augustine, Florida
For the calcium without d3, get some cuttlefish bone (used in bird cages) and use and butter knife to scrape it into a container. Then you can use it for dusting or in a calcium dish.
Khrysty
New Member
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- Oregon, IL
I use RepCal both with and without D3, and HerptiVite (made by RepCal)
little98dime
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- St. Augustine, Florida
The cuttle bone is pure calcium and its really cheap. 1.50 for 3 @ a local store here.
I have another question my gecko has been eating a little like either 1 cricket a day or 1 meal worm a day i really dont know what to do I was told it could be bc my warm side is not warm enough right now its at 82 is that my main reason or could something be wrong with her
little98dime
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- St. Augustine, Florida
She should pick up once she gets warm enough. Keep an eye on the temps. You need a thermostat like the repti-stat r500. I use it and have never had a problem. You also need a digital thermometer with a probe so you measure the substrate temps.
Khrysty
New Member
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Yeah..you're supposed to have calcium without D3 in the cage.
little98dime
Member
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Get some cuttle none and scrape it into a container. Put some of it in a small dish for the cage. Its pure calcium, no d3 added.
little98dime
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- St. Augustine, Florida
Cuttle bone I mean. Typing on a phone sucks. Lol
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