hibernation temperatures

[kirk98]

Online search brings up 3 different answers for me so Im confused. I hear the 4-6 week reduction to 53-55, then I found 60-65, and then I also got 77 degrees. HELP! :main_huh: I don't own a gecko yet just want to know everything I can.

 

[stewy84]

If your not going to breed I wouldn't worry about it, just keep a hot spot at 90ish and you should be fine.

 

[kirk98]

and what if I do :main_yes:

 

[stewy84]

check out this pagehttp://http://www.vmsherp.com/LCBreedingLeopards.htmThey did have it like the pallpython page if I remember correctly but the same info is there.

 

[KelliH]

If you want to brumate them, I would not go any cooler than about 70. They certainly do not need to be cooled to breed successfully, the females will begin ovulating when they are ready at about the same time each year.

 

[Enigmatic_Reptiles]

+1, I never have brumated any of my leos. Some females may stay on the cool side of the tub for a while but I never brumate my colonies.

 

[kirk98]

I hear that it can help your leos live longer

 

[Enigmatic_Reptiles]

It may...but so would not breeding them.

 

[Gregg M]

Brumation in leos is not needed...
There is also no factual info to be found that suggests brumation adds any more life onto your leo...

Proper brumation temps would be in the mid 50's... Anything higher will just push them off feed... In order to properly brumate all of their functions must be slowed down... Temps in the 70's will make them stop feeding but their metabolism will burn off much more of their stored nutients at a fast rate...

In the mid 50's their metabolic rates show down as well as their heart rates and breathing rates...

Also to properly brumate, you need to reduce feeding and turn the temps down gradualy... Feeding should stop completely atleast a week before they are put down for brumation...

 

[KelliH]

Yes I agree with Gregg, if you want to give them a true brumation then 70 would not be cool enough. I do know that giving them a brief cooling period (basically just unplug their racks for a couple of weeks) will stimulate breeding upon temps being raised again. I would not recommend a true brumation if you are doing it simply for breeding purposes, there is just no reason to. In my opinion of course. ;-)

I think one way to extend their lives (especially females) would be to give them a year off between breedings. I realize this does not happen in the wild but we are talking about captives here of course.

 

[SFgeckos]

I agree with statements from both Gregg and KelliH. In my experience, leopard geckos will thrive and breed without any cooling or brumation period- on the other hand, there have been years where I've provided a brumation period for up to 4 months without any ill effects. Other higher elevation reptile species I keep naturally brumate or are inactive 6 out of 12 months in the wild! Not only does this provide them with a true resting period, but it also allows the keeper to take actual vacations and save on feeder/electricity costs! I should also mention that Gregg, KelliH and myself would be considered "experienced" reptile keepers and I would not recommend a brumation period for leopard geckos, especially for a new or beginner hobbyist.

Jon