What type of Bearded Dragon and improvments?

Firstgamefreak

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Simpsonville, South Carolina
photo 5.JPG photo 2.JPG photo.JPG photo 4.JPG

(By the way, the one where he is on top of a head, that's my friend xD)

This is my buddy Thor! I was just wondering if i had a special morph of Bearded Dragon. I believe he is a sunburst because he is a bright yellow color (especially when he is happy :D) with a brown accent, but I am not sure. He is about 1 year old and I just love him to death.

My other question is, are there any improvements I could make to his habitat? He is in what I believe to be a 50 gallon tank. I have a 150 watt basking spot lamp, a thermal night lamp, and also a 10 uvb desert bulb (non heat producing). I also have a Heating pad on the side (that i will raise from the glass a bit more when i can so the heat doesn't go into the glass). I have a cavern for some shade when he wants it and a basking rock under his basking lamp as well as his water dish and his branch that he sleeps on alot.

I have a few questions and I'm just going to list all of the question's I have right here including the ones above.

1.) Is it true that Bearded Dragons can't see still water? If so should I invest in a (relitively cheap) moving water dish that moves water and recirculates?

2.) Is a Sunburst morph? If not what type of morph is he?

3.) What improvements could I make on his environment?

4.) Any other comments, questions, or suggestions?
 
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Lindz0518

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356
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Missouri
1) Most bearded dragons do not drink water and so you really don't even need a water dish. You 'bathe' a bearded dragon a few times a week. Put them in the sink in luke warm water up to their chest, they absorb water through their vent.
2)Not sure on morph
3)I would take out the sand and put in reptile carpet or tile. There is a risk of them getting impacted. As far as the uvb light, the coils have been proven to hurt beardies eyes. You want a reptisun 10.0 tube or arcadia 12%, they have the correct wavelengths for beardies, they need to be mounted on the inside of the viv with silicone or command hooks, you can get the housing for the light at walmart for cheap, because screens filter out the uvb and make them usless. As far as a basking temp, you can use a probe thermometer to measure temps, they should be 95-105, also you do not need an UTH at all. They just need the heat from the over head light and not belly heat.
 

Embrace Calamity

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Linz, what do you think about more hides and basking areas? The enclosure looks very bare to me in comparison to other beardie enclosures I've seen, but I don't want to say that with any certainty. Seems like it'd be a good idea to have a basking area under the light though, I think? And how about size of the enclosure? I've heard 50 gallon isn't big enough for an adult. I'm trying to learn here too. :)

~Maggot
 

Firstgamefreak

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Simpsonville, South Carolina
1) Most bearded dragons do not drink water and so you really don't even need a water dish. You 'bathe' a bearded dragon a few times a week. Put them in the sink in luke warm water up to their chest, they absorb water through their vent.
2)Not sure on morph
3)I would take out the sand and put in reptile carpet or tile. There is a risk of them getting impacted. As far as the uvb light, the coils have been proven to hurt beardies eyes. You want a reptisun 10.0 tube or arcadia 12%, they have the correct wavelengths for beardies, they need to be mounted on the inside of the viv with silicone or command hooks, you can get the housing for the light at walmart for cheap, because screens filter out the uvb and make them usless. As far as a basking temp, you can use a probe thermometer to measure temps, they should be 95-105, also you do not need an UTH at all. They just need the heat from the over head light and not belly heat.

Okay, I actually did not know they didn't drink water, but i do bathe him a few times a week. I do find that fact about them very interesting though.

I did hear that sand can compact them, but only at a young age, mine is about a year old, and he's quite adapt at hunting. He's got a skilled toungue :p

It's not an actual UVB bulb, it is an actual reptisun 10.0 desert bulb. However, i did not know about the screen filtering it out. I think i have a solution for that so i'll take care of that as soon as I have the funds to do so.

The UTH i don't actually use under the tank, I have it on the glass on the side of his tank slightly raise through velcro stickers (hard to explain). I'm only using that as extra because the winter is cold and we try to conserve as much energy as possible because of both my lizards consuming so much. So I have the heating pad on the side as a small extra source of heat.

I also plan on putting some real desert plants in there as well, like desert grass or something just to spruce it up and make it more realistic.
 

Firstgamefreak

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Simpsonville, South Carolina
Yes, here are 2 pictures to show you what i'm talking about. And yes, I MADE SURE that I was able to do this before i did. It says on the packaging itself that you can do this :)

photo 1.JPG photo 2.JPG

Now, i don't know if you can see it, but each corner is slightly raised through the velcro sticker thingy and I just need one more for the center so it's not touching the glass at all.
 

Embrace Calamity

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I wouldn't recommend that.
1) If it falls off, your beardie could touch it.
2) It's generally not advised to heat adhesives like those on the velcro, especially not inside the enclosure. They put off fumes.
3) What's the point of it not touching the glass? I don't really get that.

~Maggot
 

Firstgamefreak

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Simpsonville, South Carolina
I wouldn't recommend that.
1) If it falls off, your beardie could touch it.
2) It's generally not advised to heat adhesives like those on the velcro, especially not inside the enclosure. They put off fumes.
3) What's the point of it not touching the glass? I don't really get that.

~Maggot

Yea, I'm only using it during the winter because its a pain to keep it at a high enough temperature, my electricity bill is already high enough. And the point of it not touching the glass is so that the heat goes into the air and not the glass.
 

Kylerbassman

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You can get mats that get warmer then the zoo meds. They also make them better for in tank usage. Heat rises, so that heat is going to go straight up and out. Trex Cobra mats I think is the name. You could also do heat tape. I would be a little worried about fumes from the Velcro adhesive also.

Watch the sand. I know people have there opinions, but here are some good recourses that will give you some insight on the sand subject. http://www.beardeddragon.org/bjive/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=132151

Also sand is an insulator, so if you use a Uth under the sand, it can make the Uth useless.
 

Kylerbassman

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I know that beardies don't need the belly heat like leos, but using a Uth is only going to help bring up the ambient temp. You still use the basking lights as your main source as there receptors are on there back. Uth only gets to about 105 unless it malfunctions. You could use it just to help, but not as main source. If you mount it on the side, just put it outside of the Viv and stick it right on the side of the tank towards the bottom and stack some smooth rocks against it so it can trap in some of that heat..
 

Embrace Calamity

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What's the temp of your basking spot? I assume you have a temp gun, since those analogs are crap and won't give you any idea of what your basking spot temp is. It doesn't look like your beardie has an actual basking spot (and is making due with the top of the only hide available). I'd suggest you provide a spot to bask directly under the light and make sure it gets to the proper temperature.

If you're looking for ways to improve your setup, though, I'd suggest going to a bearded dragon forum, not a gecko forum. You'd get a lot more suggestions there.

~Maggot
 

Lindz0518

Member
Messages
356
Location
Missouri
You need a basking spot with a temp of 95-105, measured with a probe thermometer. The sand is not good even in older beardies, I would get rid of it. You do not need an uth at all, take it out, they do nothing really for ambient temps, if your temp falls below 65 at night then get a CHE. Also the compact uvb bulbs will harm a beardies eyes, that is a proven fact. You need a reptisun 10.0 tube light or arcadia 12% they have the proper wavelengths for beardies. Maggot is right, you need a basking spot directly under the light. Go to beardeddragon.org, they are experts and they will tell you the exact same things that I am.
 
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Lindz0518

Member
Messages
356
Location
Missouri
I know that beardies don't need the belly heat like leos, but using a Uth is only going to help bring up the ambient temp. You still use the basking lights as your main source as there receptors are on there back. Uth only gets to about 105 unless it malfunctions. You could use it just to help, but not as main source. If you mount it on the side, just put it outside of the Viv and stick it right on the side of the tank towards the bottom and stack some smooth rocks against it so it can trap in some of that heat..

My UTHs get well over 120 without a thermostat in my leo tanks
 

Lindz0518

Member
Messages
356
Location
Missouri
You can get mats that get warmer then the zoo meds. They also make them better for in tank usage. Heat rises, so that heat is going to go straight up and out. Trex Cobra mats I think is the name. You could also do heat tape. I would be a little worried about fumes from the Velcro adhesive also.

Watch the sand. I know people have there opinions, but here are some good recourses that will give you some insight on the sand subject. Bearded Dragon . org ? View topic - Why shouldn't I use sand? (Read this, and you'll find out!)

Also sand is an insulator, so if you use a Uth under the sand, it can make the Uth useless.

Sand transfers heat, it doesn't insulate against it, most use it under tile to make for even heat distribution (????)
 

Kylerbassman

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332
Location
PA
Um, no, sand transfers heat well at top level like if you are at the beach and you have direct sunlight all day the top inch or two will be hot an inch or two down will be cooler. If you have a cold drink at the beach, a good way to keep it cool is sticking it in the sand since it is a way better insulator then a conductor. Sand is a conductor but it is a much better insulator then a conductor. Back in the old days of construction they used sand as an insulator quite frequently. The upper inch will be much hotter. Have you ever seen people cook in sand. This is why they use it. Sand will keep the heat from the coals inside. Heat will distribute through sand but natural stone is way better then sand. Just saying
 

Kylerbassman

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332
Location
PA
I agree a Uth is not needed, although I have a friend that has a beardie, and he uses a Uth to help with heating, he obviously relies mostly on lighting but he's got a much larger tank then that so its more just to help keep his ambient temps up. Some mats can get hotter, but they are few and far between. I have 3 different brand of mats and none of them can produce over 105. I like the Che idea and feel its much better than the heat mat, but those things scare me. My buddy almost lost his house because it got knocked over. I know it's his fault, but something that can get that hot needs to be extremely secured and watched. I burnt the crap out of my hand on one at my buddies place. Took the skin right off :) but I deserved it since I was stupid enough not to be careful about it.
 

Firstgamefreak

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Simpsonville, South Carolina
Thank you all so much for all of your suggestions and feedback!!!!

Okay, so the UVB bulb i use isn't true UVB, it is actually in fact a Reptisun 10.0 Desert bulb.
My basking spot is 150Watt and my night bulb is 75Watt. I run both at the same time to keep the temperature up to what it needs to be.

I will then take out and not use the UTH behind that the adhesive could possibly have harmful fumes, and the fact that it doesn't really help the ambient temperature.

I do not currently have a temp gun, all i have unfortunately are analog therms. But i do plan on upgrading 2 of them to digital.

The reason why i use sand is because his excrements can get quite nasty and sand makes it so easy to scoop and toss, while with a repticarpet it would make it near impossible to completely get rid of because it would rub into it. Thus i would have to replace it very often and i just don't have the kind of financial resources needed for that. So I have to go with sand because of the convenience and the money saving. If there is something else that would do better than both sand and carpet please let me know.

Anything that has the potential danger of a CHE i will not get. I will not put my house, and my little buddies at risk of harm.

Again, I want to thank all of you so much for your input :) glad to be a part of this community :) :) :)
 

Embrace Calamity

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I do not currently have a temp gun, all i have unfortunately are analog therms. But i do plan on upgrading 2 of them to digital.
So you don't really know what the temps are. You need to know what the basking spot temp is. The analogs give you bad readings on air temps and are pretty much useless for a basking reptile.
The reason why i use sand is because his excrements can get quite nasty and sand makes it so easy to scoop and toss, while with a repticarpet it would make it near impossible to completely get rid of because it would rub into it. Thus i would have to replace it very often and i just don't have the kind of financial resources needed for that. So I have to go with sand because of the convenience and the money saving. If there is something else that would do better than both sand and carpet please let me know.
Um, the carpets are made to be washed. But most people here will probably suggest tile.
Anything that has the potential danger of a CHE i will not get. I will not put my house, and my little buddies at risk of harm.
How is a CHE dangerous? UTHs are more dangerous than CHEs are.

~Maggot
 

Firstgamefreak

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Location
Simpsonville, South Carolina
So you don't really know what the temps are. You need to know what the basking spot temp is. The analogs give you bad readings on air temps and are pretty much useless for a basking reptile.
Um, the carpets are made to be washed. But most people here will probably suggest tile.
How is a CHE dangerous? UTHs are more dangerous than CHEs are.

~Maggot

Well, because of my own accidental ignorance and carelessness, i almost burned my house down 3 times from accidentally leaving bulbs down on another surface when i had to take them off for something, and then my automatic timer turned them on while i was gone O.O. So i don't want anything else that could catch something on fire easily.

I will look some more into carpet and tile, and many of my other options as well, possibly emulate what they are native to still more to look up.

I will definitely get a temp gun then if it really is that crucial. I want to provide the best possible environment for my beardy :)
 

Embrace Calamity

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1,564
Location
Pennsylvania
Well, because of my own accidental ignorance and carelessness, i almost burned my house down 3 times from accidentally leaving bulbs down on another surface when i had to take them off for something, and then my automatic timer turned them on while i was gone O.O. So i don't want anything else that could catch something on fire easily.

I will look some more into carpet and tile, and many of my other options as well, possibly emulate what they are native to still more to look up.

I will definitely get a temp gun then if it really is that crucial. I want to provide the best possible environment for my beardy :)
You can do that with anything that gets hot if you aren't paying attention. Doesn't make them dangerous. I use three on different reptiles and have never had any issues. UTHs, however, I'm somewhat wary of.

I'd suggest you do some hardcore reading on bearded dragon care and actually go to a forum for bearded dragons. Bearded Dragon . org ? Index page
Tosney's Bearded Dragon Care

~Maggot
 

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