Force Feeding

G

geckoo.:Gg

Guest
How do I force feed my male leopard gecko? He hasn't been eating because the temperatures were too cold and now my vet has told me to force feed it baby food. Does anyone have any tips? I tried to make him mad and bite the syringe filled with baby food but he wont nudge. Any tips would be appreciated.
 

Designer Geckos

Contributor
Messages
967
Location
Boulder, CO
I myself do not like force feeding unless it is a matter of life or death. Some leos can go for a long time without eating.
If his tail is getting really skinny you must do something though.
Have you tried offering every feeder to him? Some will only eat supers, some only mealies, or crickets, etc. Waxworms can often tempt the most finicky leos. Once you get him eating and putting on weight, he should start to eat more regularly because he'll feel better/healthier.
Have you tried de-legging a few choice crickets for him? Many leos can't resist these mini-lobsters, especially if they don't have to chase them around. Remove the rear legs and one foreleg, put them in a small clear dish so he can see them, and give him time. Bet he'll grab them!

Good luck.
 

Mel&Keith

Mod Squad Member
Messages
7,180
Location
Pasadena, TX
Your vet told you to force feed him because the temps were too low?! If his lack of appetite is only due to the winter weather then raise temps in his tank. We keep an oil heater in the gecko room during the winter. Force feeding a healthy gecko during natural brumation is not necessary.
 
G

geckoo.:Gg

Guest
I have raised the temps. but he hadn't eaten or defecated for about a week and a half. The vet told me to give him some grapes to eat because he was very dehydrated and sick. I managed to get him to finally bite the end of the syringe and eat the baby food so I think I can nurture him back to eating now.
 

Tony C

Wayward Frogger
Messages
3,899
Location
Columbia, SC
A week is not long enough to worry about if it is otherwise healthy. I think you should look for a new vet, the one you have is giving some pretty bad advice.
 

gothra

Happy Gecko Family
Messages
3,790
Location
HK
A week and a half not eating during this time of the year is nothing. Force feeding will do more harm than good to the gecko. As many others have already mentioned, raise the overall temp - floor temp as well as room temperature. I also have an oil heater in my gecko room, and I keep the ambient temperature 75-80F.

**Be very careful when you squirt babyfood into your gecko's mouth; if he chokes he'll die.
 

Mel&Keith

Mod Squad Member
Messages
7,180
Location
Pasadena, TX
How old is the gecko and how much does it weigh? It just doesn't seem like forcing it to eat should be necessary. Is your vet a herp vet or a dog and cat vet?
 

acpart

Geck-cessories
Staff member
Messages
15,363
Location
Somerville, MA
I would never force feed, as in stuffing anything down a gecko's throat. I do use "assisted feeding" where I hold the gecko in one hand and gently press the feeder against its mouth. I have several geckos who haven't eaten much for quite awhile and are on an "every 3 day feeding" schedule. I have recently started assisted feeding a few of them every 3 days, just a mealworm or two so they get something in their bellies. If they resist, I stop, but a few have taken some mealworms. I am doing this to jump start their return to eating after a winter of not really eating much.

Aliza
 

acpart

Geck-cessories
Staff member
Messages
15,363
Location
Somerville, MA
Do you have adult leos that will eat every day? :main_huh:

At the moment I'm feeding all my adults every 3 days and my juvies 2 days on, 1 day off (my smallest juvie weighs over 20 grams at this point). During breeding season I feed all the geckos every day and the breeding females pace the floor waiting for their meal. Based on what they're eating now, I don't think anyone wants to eat every day and it's probably better for non-breeding adults to eat every other day.

Aliza
 

STUTFL

New Member
Messages
1,284
Location
Between two terrariums
'Kay, just checking - every three's about how my leo's always been too (got him as an adult), but it seems like a longer time when I have a big new batch of supers crawling and squirming and waiting to be leo food. :laugh:
 
G

geckoo.:Gg

Guest
The gecko is about 3 years old. He doesn't look to be getting skinnier or underweight. He walks around fine. He just doesn't eat or poop. :(
 

MrLeoGecko

The bird Is The Word
Messages
329
Location
Birmingham, Uk
my 2 adults eat about 2 large crickets everyday and belive me in saying my door was frozen to the frame this morning i know people feed adults every 2 days but id rather give them alittle something everyday

it really made me laugh when the vet said give him grapes i mean seriously did this vet even go to university even a non qualified reptile vet should no a insectivous animal isnt going to eat grapes i mean come on it realli is a joke i would realli consider changing your vet i think she must of thought it was a beardey lol

but i would'nt force feed as it will make them go off solid foods for a long time and this side winter its going to do more harm than good are u using a uth or a lamp if ure using a lamp then go and get a uth

and if he isnt loosing weight then i would'nt worry as he's got a backup fat reserve after a while he should come round because he's not going to starve him self

how big would u say his tail is i.e a comparison to his neck or your thumb
 
G

geckoo.:Gg

Guest
His tail is very plump, it hasn't started to get smaller. He was very well fed before this, I gave him 2-3 large crickets a night. Last week I only had 75 watt bulbs but now I changed to 100 watts. Can I use a UTH with the table the cage is on? Or will i have to get a different support?
 

reptilekeeper

New Member
Messages
47
Location
Windsor Ohio
My leo went a week without eating. Thanks to the people on here i wasnt that worried. Thanks everyone:) Yea i wouldnt force feed unless it was a matter of life and death for the leo. Just give it time.
 
Last edited:

mindgamer8907

New Member
Messages
144
UTH is usually a better bet, and I know some brands (I could suggest one if you'd like) are relatively cheap, reliable and have nifty elevating nubs to keep your tank bottom off the table so it doesn't overheat. I've currently got a tank on a university dresser (cheap and highly flammable). Barely heats above room temp, as long as there's little direct contact with the table it should be fine. It also sounds like your little one will be fine, but really unfortunate how misinformed your vet is. As you probably know (but it is never a bad idea to reiterate): fruits and veggies are not gecko food. As MrLeoGecko pointed out they are insectivores, when will non-exotic vets learn these simple things? Best of luck with the herp. lol
 

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