Nice How To. I build my racks almost identical to this, except I do one thing different, when spacing the shelves I put the boxes on upside down and add levels from the top down, so that the finished rack is upside down. This means that the leftover side rails that stick out can be left on and used as "legs" for the rack. I like to keep my bottom levels off the floor, just seems to help with temp regulation. depending on how tall the legs are, you also get a nice little storage space under the rack, comes in handy. Cutting them off is fine as well though, just a matter of preference. Great job!
the board i used is water resistant. i had some what of a brain fart. its the cheapest board you can buy, and IMO the best to use besides plastic. i wouldnt use ply wood. but the stuff i have in the pictures is a type of partical board.
I accidentally found this while looking for info on thermostats. I'm a finish carpanter, and will be building a small adult rack soon, and will post step by step.
Any suggestions for thermostat types? This will be my first time working with flexwatt, and the thermostat is my only question. They cost a good bit, so I don't want to get the wrong one. For instance, herpstat vs. helix? There's just so many and a good price spread, any suggestions?
a helix is always the best and prefered by most herp breeders. they are more reliable than any of the others. and i say that because i have more horror stories from other thermostats than the helix. that is if you have the money to spend. if you do not have a lot of money, big apple herp makes their own for 32$, and you can get an a-life which is pretty mcuh the same thing. i use the big apple herp on my incubators because i was short on cash when i bought them. sorry i was a little late on answering this question, i just came accross it now.